The Bar Tab: Martinis and pizza at Piatti

Bloody Mary

Aesthetically, I’m jolted as I round the corner onto Gateway Avenue. In the lot once occupied by a gas station now sits a posh Euro hotspot, complete with a marble facade, sky-high windows and stainless steel beams.

It’s Piatti, the Italian bistro and bar that opened about a month ago by owner Nick Melone and the Il Panificio Family Group. Not what I expected to find in the Gulf Gate Village, where I literally was the weekend prior — at a smoky pub on a parallel street — watching a metal concert.

The district proves its full-spectrum diversity with additions like Piatti, which boasts a rich Mediterranean menu, DJs and VIP bottle service on Friday nights, and the best spicy Bloody Mary martini I’ve ever sipped.

“Our martinis are awesome, I have to say,” said mixologist Rob Skene. “None of my recipes are off a computer; they’re from my head, which, I think, makes them stand out.”

Everything about Piatti stands out, from the ultra-mod décor to the grinning servers in their all-black attire. Billed as “an upscale experience without the upcharge,” the 65-seater eatery (whose name means “plates” in Italian) is so much more than pretty.

Arugula pizza

Christian Cornell pours a bottle of Aqua Panna as I sample the Bistro Truffle Fries and a slice of the Piatti al Fresco (an $11 pizza with arugula, roasted red peppers and goat cheese). An Il Panificio pizza and sandwich shop with for-purchase deli goods is right next door, beckoning me to buy a cart of that fresh goat cheese I just scarfed.

Most of executive chef Steven Whipple’s entrées — from saltimbocca to the linguine and clams — hover around $16. Behind the glass-top bar with its stainless steel chairs, Skene crafts libations with as much inventiveness as Whipple puts into his cuisine.

While there are 1,300 wine bottles in a climate-controlled cellar at Piatti, there’s also a full bar with top-shelf liquor that allows Skene to shake and pour in style. LED lights rotate in lime green, violet and turquoise below the bar’s countertop as Skene stands under a sculptural chandelier, talking about spirits.

On draft are: Bud Light, Shock Top, AmberBock, Stella Artois, Michelob Ultra, Miller Lite, Magic Hat #9, Negra Modelo and Southern Tier IPA, all for about $5.

Piatti's extensive wine cellar

I’m sticking with Skene’s martinis (12 grace the menu, and he conceived eight of them). There’s the aforementioned $10 Bloody Mary with Belvedere vodka, a splash of dirty martini juice, some secret spices and lemon-lime juice. What makes this gastronomic cocktail so special is its pickled green olive and string bean on a toothpick and its celery salt rim — practically an appetizer.

“I’m really into trying new drinks,” Skene said. “I’ve been doing this for about 10 years, and to me, it’s an art form.”

If you’re feeling a tad more old-fashioned, try the Gentlemen’s for $12 with Crown Royal Black whiskey, Hennessy cognac, honey water and squeezes of fresh orange and lemon. Drool-inducing dessert martinis come in espresso, blueberry cheesecake, strawberry shortcake, raspberry chocolate cake and banana cream pie.

Whether you want your sweet finish in a glass or on a plate, you’re covered. Cornell leaves me with a white box full of cream-filled cannoli at the night’s end, and as I walk toward my ride, I’m already fantasizing about my next Piatti playdate.

Gulf Gate, you never cease to surprise me. I’ll take another Bloody Mary, please.