Il Panificio: A family-owned favorite

For years, Il Panificio has operated a combination pizzeria, delicatessen and bakery on Main Street. It’s the kind of place for picking up take-out food or grabbing a quick bite while sitting on one of the stools at high tables.

The operation has now expanded with a new location at the corner of Gateway and Gulf Gate avenues, following the same formula, except that the new location extends its offerings to include appetizers and pasta dishes.

The location is indeed new, bright and shiny with floor-to-ceiling windows and a scattering of tables. Inside the door, glass counters display tempting selections of deli treats, breads and sweets.

Despite the added menu items, this isn’t actually a full-service restaurant. Diners pick up menus themselves, then place their order at the counter. When it’s ready, someone will bring it over to the table. Appetizers arrive in plastic carry-out containers.

It’s all very informal and designed as much for take-out as sit-down.

The same informality governs the new items on the menu. Appetizers include fare such as Caprese Salad ($7.99), Fried Zucchini ($4.99), Mozzarella Sticks ($6.99), and, rather inexplicably, French Fries ($2.99).

The Antipasta ($7.99) plate proved ample, with a generous assortment of salami, pepperoni, ham, and provolone, plus a giardiniera of pickled vegetables including red peppers, carrots, cauliflower and pepperoncini. It was so generous, in fact, that it carried me through two subsequent lunches, a testament not only to the amount, but also to the high quality of the ingredients.

A plate of Calamari ($7.99) came nicely fried, not heavy at all on the batter. The sauce was chunky, but could have used a bit more seasoning.

The same could be said for Spaghetti and Meatballs ($9.99), which again typified Il Panificio’s largesse in quantity. The sauce, however, lacked a spark. It was the kind of dish that a parent might pick up on a busy night, but is not one you would call memorable.

The menu includes other main courses like Lasagna ($9.99), Eggplant Parmesan ($9.99) and Naked Ziti ($9.99).

For now, at least, Il Panificio’s take-out menu still carries the day.

An Italian Sub ($7) overflowed with layers of ham, capicola, salami and provolone, along with tomato and lettuce. The bread itself was thick and chewy, the whole combination a sturdy and satisfying casual meal.

The Prosciutto Sub ($8) didn’t fare quite as well, probably because with only the ham and cheese, the meat gets a bit lost in the thick, chewy bread.

Finally, there is the pizza, a definite highlight at Il Panificio. They specialize in thin-crust pizza, which is the proper way to make it, and the restaurant divides its selections into regular and specialty pies. Like almost everything at Il Panificio, these were large — 20 inches — but those who find that daunting can instead order by the slice.

The regular pies cover the expected, from a plain Cheese Pie ($14), to Pepperoni ($14), Sausage ($16), Sicilian ($15) and others.

Specialty pizzas include such versions as White Pizza with Tomato & Basil ($15), Olive and Artichoke ($17), and Clam ($20).

We tried a White Pizza Pie with Spinach ($18), which also included mushrooms and red onion along with the ricotta. It was very good. The thin crust not only provided a crisp underlay, but it also didn’t obscure the topping as thick crusts often do. The spinach and mushrooms went together well, with robust flavors, which the sweetness of the onion tempered. The textures mixed well, too, the mushrooms chewy, the onions crunchy, the ricotta soft and creamy.

For dessert, a Sfogliatelle ($2.90), a multi-layered pastry with a cream filling, was light and flavorful, while the several Italian cookies ($12.99/pound) we tried were all quite tasty.

Il Panificio has a small selection of inexpensive wines as well as beer. Service is quite informal but friendly.

Read Jack Winner’s past columns at heraldtribune.com/diningout.